Shoe and method of making same



' -2 ,1 v. FORSCHNER 2,327,415

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 18, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet l 68 INVENTOR V/LEM FORSGHNER' Aug. 24, 1943. v. FORSCHNER 2,327,415

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 18, 1941 s Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR l lL EM FaRscHNsR 1943- v. Fo'RscHNER 2,327,415

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 18, l94l 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR 42 ATTORNEY ing the upper 'in Patented Aug. 24, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,327,415 7 SHOE AND MET-non or MAKING SAME Vilem Fors'chner, New YorkrNi Application April 18, 1941, Serial No. 389,153 3 Claims. (01. 12- 142) My invention relates to footwear'and more particularly to shoes and methods of making same,

One object of my invention is to provide a method by means of which the placing of an upper onto a last prior to its attachment to the sole is eliminated.

A further object of my invention is to provide a method by means of which a shoe with a sole having an upwardly extending flange may be manufactured, wherein the edge of the upper attached to the outside of the flange is folded and contacts the flange with the exterior face of the material of the upper.

, Another object of my inventionis to provide a method by means of which shoes having a Shirred upper ma be manufactured without deformation of the wrinkles of the upper during the attachment of the upper to thesole.

Still another object of my invention is to provide a method by means-of which a shoewith a sole having an upwardly'extending' flange may be manufactured wherein the upper with its lining is attached to the outside of the flange and the inside of the flange is covered by a strip of lining attached to the upper on top of its lining. In order to carry out my invention into practice I use a method of making shoes comprising the steps of preparingan upper having material in excess of the material required fora proper fitting on the wearers foot, providing means on 7 said upper for taking in the material thereof so as to shape same for a proper fitting on thewearers foot, and attaching the upper to a sole. I

The above mentioned objectsand advantages as well as other objects and advantages will be more fully disclosed in the following specification reference being had tothe accompanying "drawings forming 'partof this specification, wherein: Fig. l is a perspective view of? shoe manufactured according to my method, ,7 V

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal cross-section of the shoe taken on line 2-2 of Fig. 1, 1 I Fig. 3 is a transverse cross-section of the shoe taken on line 3--3 of Fig. 1, f

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of with an upwardly extending flange illustrating the first step of the attachment of the upper'to the sole (only a portion of the upper being shown in said figure) Fig. 5 is a sectional view of the upper and the sole taken on line 5-5 of Fig. 4, Figs. 6-8 illustrate various subsequentsteps o the attachment of the upper to the sole,

a"molded."so1e Fig. 9 is a perspective view of; the shoe illustratposition" after having been turned over,

Fig. 10 is across-sectional view of the'shoe'" similar to that shownin Fig. 3, illustratingith'e steps of contacting the upper, t Fig. 11' is a plan View of theexterior face of the spread out upper, i

t2 may be severed by scissors or the like.

though according to Figs. 11 and 12 the holes 54 Fig. 12 is a plan view of the interior face of the spread out upper,

Figs. 13-20 illustrate various embodiments of the connection between an upper and a sole according to my method,

Fig. 21 is a fragmentary cross-section of a different embodiment of a shoe illustrating the connection between the quarter and the sole,

Fig. 22 is a fragmentary perspective view of a shoe manufactured according to a different embodiment of my method,

Fig. 23 is a cross-section of the shoe shown in Fig. 22, taken on line 23--23 of Fig. 22, and

Fig. 24 is a fragmentary longitudinal section of the sole and upper similar to that shown in Fig. 5, illustrating the manufacture of the shoe according to a different embodiment of my method.

Referring now. to Figs. 1 and 2, 30 generally indicates the sole, 32 generally indicates the heel secured to the sole in any suitable manner, and 34 generally indicates the upper attached to the sole according to my method. In the embodiment shown in said Figs.'1 and 2, the upper 34 comprises a vamp 3S,'a quarter strip 38 and a back-strap or heel-strap 49, both secured to the vamp in suitable manner.

The vamp 35 forming the main portion of the upper in the style of shoe shown in the drawings is cut from or stamped out of a flexible material, such as leather, fabric, straw or the like, and this material may be plain or plaited. As may be seen from the shape of the-spread out vamp, 35 illustrated in Fig. 11, the vamp has material in excess of the materialrequired for a proper fitting on the Wearers foot.

In preparing the upper, a lining 42 (Figs. 11

and 12) of. a shape corresponding to that of the vamp 35 is attached to the latter by a seam 44. Then, three casings 46, t8, Stare formed by sewing together the vamp and the lining along the seams 52, whereupon a hole '54 is cut into the wall of each casing on the exterior Iace of the vamp. NoW, two strings generally indicated by and are placed into each of the casings. Each string consists of an elastic viii or respectiveiy and apdlling stringent or 60' respectively attached to one end or the elastic. lhe strings and 53 are placed into the centres in such a way that the pul u'lg strips 34 and project from the holes 54 and the ends oi the elastics and 62 project from the casings at the edge of the vamp. Now, a curve strip be 01' linin is placed on top of the lining 42 and is secured to the latter by a seam lo. Said seam arso secures the elastics .60, t2 t0fthe casings 45, 423, in: and. attaches the lining 42 to: the vamp 36 near the edge thereof.

Then the projecting ends of the elastic iii; and

are on the exterior face of the vamp, they could back-strap ii! having an elastic 12 therein and one end of aquarter strip 38 are sewed on the vamp The steps of the attachment or theup er prepared in the manner described above to a molded sole having an upwardly extending-flange M are illustrated by Figs. 4-9. a

According to Fig. 4, at first the edge 76 of the vamp and the edge '58 of the quarter strip- (see. Fig-ll) are attached to the outside of the flange hi by a seam 859 with the interior face of t'he upper outward, i. e. the exterior'face of thejvamp 36 contacts the flange'and the lining C 2 of the vamp is on the outside. Thenthe unshaped. up per. is turned over in the direction of the arrow A'shcwn inFig. 5, so that the upper is brought into the position shown in Figs. 6 and 9, with its exterior face outward. As best shown in Fig- 6, the turnin ovenci theuppcr after its attachment to the sole causes a iolding of the' e'dge of the upper attached. to the sole. Preferably, after theturning over of the upper, thestill .free'end Si or the hack-strap this also sewed onfthe vamp as; New; shes-trip ssis gripped by hand or by a suitable'implement and pulled in the direc- I tion of the arrow B as shown in Fig. '7, until the edge 82 of the strip 58 tightly contacts the edge Moi the flange E i, so that said edge ii i oithe flange causes'a' discernible ridge on the outside of, the llpiie'r at 83 (see Fig. 8). Thereupon, the strip. 63 is'pasted on or cemented to theinside of the flange i i and the sole as shown in Fig. 8. Furthercr'nore, the upwardly extendinig portion of the quarter'strip is turned around the'edge of the flange 75 so that it is brought intothe position shown, in Fig. 2, whereupon saidportion of the quarter-strip 33 is pasted on crcemented to the inside of the' fiang'e i i and the'sole 3Q.

As pointed nitabove', the upper has mate in .eiiices's of the material required for'apro fittingon the wearers foot, and as best shown Fig. 9, i. e. the style of a shoe show'n int h'e rawingsthev mp-ss thereof would not properly fitoii the wearer foo-t 88 indicatedby dash lines in saidiigure. shapedfor a; proper fitting on the wearers foot after its attachment to the sole and its having been turned over by taking in the excess material. For this purpose the following steps are carried out: The pulling strings G-iand of each casing are gripped and pulledu ntil the end of the elastics 6t and s2 of a predetermined length "for a; certain size of the shoe project from the hole- E i. Thereby the material" of the vamp i6 and its lining 42 is shirred, as best shown in Fig. 10. Now, the proiectingends the elastioscs 'and l are connected with each other by-a seam iii] and the pulling strip 64% and 65 are severed. The ends of the elastics connected with each other are pushed back into the'hcle as shown in Fig. 3,-and'the-hole and saidends become practically invisible bythe shirring eifect of the vamp,

as best shown in Fig.1.

. -Fig-i Zindicates the proper fitting of the upper. .on the wearers' foot 88 after the hirring of .the

upper. a.

For the above described shaping of the ,upper the upper on the wearer foot.

. and shapingth'e u 35 t 1 b w Therefore; the upper must be upper to sea..- inseam dritstii v Furthermore, theupp'er maybe attached At a suitable point durin the manufacture of the shoe the heel 32 (Fig. 2) is secured to the sole 3!], a shank 92 is attached to the upper surrace; of thelshl'eg 30 andfa" s'o'ck limnjg is cemented to thesole on topof the shank 92 and the margins of the quarter strip 38 and the strip 68' of a lining. A may be seen from Fi 2 the entireinside of,th e, shoe including the inner face 6f the hinge iris covered by a lining constituted 10: b'yielementsififl and 68 so that the shoe is com- Furthermore, aec raing to" Fig. re; the mung of vamp may also be oifiittedl- 7 It ma be rnentio'rie'd that in an trident-6mlhcllts shown in Figs. 1'1'4 th'e seen 80 ismvisible on the outside of the shoe, as the upper has'b eeh turned ever after its a'ttachr'nritto the sole with'i tsinteiior raee'eutw'am;

Fuithrmoie, iny method of; eras ng. shoesvy preparing an upper having mate in eikcess of the rnaterial required for a pro-p g fittirig 'dfl the-wearers nineaaacning the upper to s 'sole pr' after its attachment to in the ii'iat'eiilof the upper fora proper fitting on the wea sitntnrsy-mn be carried out without the turn g eve pieces; o f the upper. IS-I'YQibjreX'ampIe; illustrate the attachment of the upset with its exreno'rrab'e 4 outward to tnenutsidebr the flan e war asore jsju'. Fig. 15 illustrates the use are lining 42 and the stripof lining '3; Fi .16 'illii" rates the use pr mean ng #2 any, and according as Fig; 1 the vamp 3fiha's no lining avail;

4 Moreover, according to my invention-an ufifie'r havingm'aterial in exgess of tne-fmate'r-im r'e quired for a pro er' flttiri'g" on e wearer's root may be attached; 0 any type so e. and any type of. connection between the sole and the runner 50 maybe used.

I Fig..1' 8, er arn-151e, en ines a- "s'eie "311 new an angIe-sha; a was a sa aenenginer ew. and the upperis attached to-the outside a: the upwardly extendingfflan'ie of tile welt '5'! According tn-Fig. i9; r 'nlexain theup a'idly extending flange r the' sole 33 is reassur nting a channel 58 into the edge-5r the soleand bending upward the portion 'lflll'fqf tifelsijlh. upper having eiicess materialii's attached to the 6O portion 'i {18' and fatter its "attachment My methods'alsope nhi't the attac quarter [08 may be used as shown in Figizl.

In the above described embodiment the excess material of the upper is taken in by shirring same by means or" elastics having pulling strips attached thereto. If desired, said pulling strips could be omitted and elastics of greaterlength than necessary could be used; after the pulling out of a portion of the elastics and connecting the elastics with each other to fix the length of the elastics remaining in the casings for a proper fitting of the upper on the wearers foot, the superfluous ends of the elastics would be severed in the same manner as the pulling strips are severed in the embodiment described above;

Furthermore, instead of using two strings 5t and 5B in each of the casings, a single string of sufficient length projecting from the hole 54 in the form of a loop could be used. Moreover, conventional tapes of fabric could be used for the strings instead of elastics;

The number and the arrangement of the casings for the strings to contract the material of the upper in wrinkles may be chosen in accordance with the design of the shoe.

Instead of taking in the excess material of the upper by means of strings any other convenient means for taking in the material of the upper may be used. According to Figs. 22 and 23, for example, the material of the upper is taken in by means of a body IM- inserted into the upper. The material of the upper is gathered by means of a strip Hi6 holding the body Hi4 in its position. The strip IE6 is tightened by a bow which, in turn, is fastened by a stitch. Instead of using a disc-like body I94 as shown in the drawings a body of a different shape may be used. If this type of taking in the material is used, further means are necessary to tie the shoe for properly holding same on the wearers foot. For example, a casing with an elastic could be arranged on the upper like the casing 46 in the embodiment shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 22, however, shoWs a difierent embodiment according to which only the side portions I08, H of the upper are shirred by strips H2, I I4 arranged in casings and secured to the walls of the casings during the manufacture of the shoe. The middle portion N6 of the upper remains unshirred during the manufacture of the shoe and may be shirred by the wearer of the shoe by means of a shoelace I It or the like.

Instead of taking in the excess material of the upper by contracting means as described above, the upper could be shaped to the form of the wearers foot by cutting out the excess material and joining the edges formed byfthe cuts.

According to the methods described above the upper having excess material is shaped after its attachment to the sole. Under certain conditions, however, the upper may be shaped prior to its attachment to the sole or during its attachment to the sole. In such a case a single elastic of a pre: determined length is placed into each of the easings i-5o. The holes 54 are omitted. Now, both ends of each elastic may be secured to the wall of the casing, so that, the upper is shirred determined length may be secured in each casing to the wall thereof, and the other end of the elastic may be secured to the casing simultaneously with the attaching of the upper with its interior face outward to the outside of the flange i i, so that the upper is shaped duri its attachment to the sole. In this case the upper is also turned over While the elastics are stretched.

I have described preferred embodiments of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention.

What I claim is:

l. A method oi making shoes comprising the steps of preparing an upper having material in excess of the material required for a proper fitting on the wearers foot, SGCLlllllg the edge of a strip of lining to the interior face of the upper by a seam near the edge oi the upper L0 be attached to the flange of a sole having an upwardly extending flange, attaching the unshaped upper with the I rior i ace outward to the outside of said flange of the sole, turning over the unshaped upper so as to bring its exterior face outward, pulling said strip of lining tightly around said flange for placing said seam above said flange and adjacent thereto, attaching the free portion of said strip of lining under tension to the inside of the flange and the sole for a tight contact between the edge of the flange and the strip of lining near seam so as to render discernible the edge or the flange on the exterior face of the upper, and shaping the upper after having been turned over for a proper fitting on the wearers foot.

2. in a turnover shoe the combination of a re ati ely rigid sole having an upwardly extending flange, an upper attached to the outside of the flange, the edge oi said upper being folded and contacting the flange with the exterior face of tn-e material or the upper, said upper having mawrinkles, said upper being shaped by said means for a proper iitting on we rers foot, and a strip of lining secured the interior face of the upper above said flange and adjacent thereto by a seam, said strip being lastened under tension to the inside 01' the flange d the sole for a tight contact between the edge or the riange and the strip of lining near said seam whereby the edge or the flange is rendered discernible.

o'. A method oi maliing shoes con'lprising the steps of preparing an upper having material in excess of the material required ior a proper iitting on the wearers i attaching a lining to said upper, winning at least one tia sverse casing by sewing together tne'upper and the lining, cutting a holein the wall or the casing, placing means for contracting the material of the upper into said casing, securing said means to wall or the casing and having a portion of means upper with the interior face outward to a sole,

turning ever the unshaped upper So as to bring its exterior face outward, and shirring the upper after its having been turned over by gripping the p ejecting portion of the contracting means, pulling same out of the hole and fixing the length of the contracting means remaining in the casing so-as to shape the upper for a proper fitting on the wearers foot.

VILEM FORSCHNER.

' iol contracting the material thereof in 

